Vogue 8774 done!!

Finally a sewing weekend.  I got to start and finish my chocolate cords.  I know they look purple in these pics, but in real life, it is a dark chocolate. 

The muslin that I made seemed promising, so I cut out the corduroy.....

 

I altered the fronts to have cut on, fly extensions, as I think it is just easier.  I made the front pockets deeper and extended them to reach past the center front, so as to be caught in the fly extensions. This not only provides some .... support... across the front, but it keeps the pockets from pulling open when wearing them.

 

 

 

The front pockets had to be completed before the fly could be sewn.

 I used my FAVORITE method of zipper insertion, Debbie Cook's zipper tutorial http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com/2001/04/techniques-jeans-fly.html.  I printed it off and keep it handy, as I have to follow it EVERY time!!

Here is my zipper.  A trouser zipper from Coats and Clarks, from 1963!!!  This zipper is almost as old as I am!!

 

 Here you can see that the assembled front pocket extends beyond the center front to be caught in the fly extensions.

I drafted a fly shield to match my cut on fly extensions.

I made this card board fly template based upon a pair of RTW that I liked.

 

The Vogue pattern had the fly opening the opposite of what I made, I prefer my way.  ((-:

Vogue would have you stitch the belt loops in a tube and then turn right side out.  WHAT?
I cut a strip 1 1/4" wide

 Serged one side of it.  Folded in the non serged side, 1/2"

Then I folded serged side over about 3/8", to end up with a 1/2" wide belt loop.  Then I just top stitched 1/8" from each edge on the right side. Easy.  Below is the back side of the belt loops.

 

To get all my belt loops the same length, I cut, press and then steam them into submission, using a see through ruler to ensure they are all the same.

 

Time for the big test.... I sewed the inner leg seams together... and topstitched them (silly me)

Then I basted the side seams together and tried them on.  I almost cried.  I didn't take a picture, I thought I could not fix it and was distraught.  It appeared that I had a pool of fabric floating under each butt cheek.  Big enough for a boob or perhaps, an extra butt cheek.  Under each butt cheek.  Not a good look.  I was quite upset.  Damn muslin did not have this issue.  Of course, my corduroy had more stretch than the quiling cotton muslin.  So I pulled out a pair of RTW that I had previously altered a droopy butt on. Compared it to the pattern, the inner back leg was about 1" too wide at the crotch and ending about 8" down. 

 

So I picked all my topstitching out of the inner leg seams down about a foot on each inner thigh.  I then moved the back leg over the 1" to simulate having cut it off ( I was chicken) and basted it together and tried it on.  The boob pools were GONE.  I think I almost cried.  So I cut the excess off for real, and sewed up all the previously basted seams.  Ecstatic, I was.

 

 

Then I attached the waistband.  Damn.  The curvature of the band was just too much.  I do not curve much from hips to waist.  I also decided I did not like how thin the waistband was.  Being a low rise, a skinny waist band just cut me right across my .... muffin top.  Not good.  I did not have enough fabric to cut out a new one with the grain going correctly, so the wales do not run up and down on the waist band, but I don't care.  I widened the waist band and lessened the curve by cutting and spreading the upper portion of the waist band in 4 places, about 1/8" for each cut.

This worked out perfect.  I don't know where I read this following tip, or even how to describe it very well, but I cut the waistband lining to meet the outer waistband on the inside, vs having them meet at the end.  So when I turned it right side out, the outer waistband wrapped around to the inside and the lining can not be seen from the button edge. 

Makes for a very nice finish and less bulk right where you will be putting in buttonholes.

I used my jean a ma jig to help with the pressure while going over intersecting seams.  It worked great.

I went with real buttons on my jeans.  These buttons ARE older than me.  I just love old buttons and estate sales.  I use a nail under the button to preserve a 'space' so that the button is not sewn on so tight, that it is hard to button and unbutton.

Here they are on.  I am in love.  They were not hemmed yet in this pic, trying to decide perfect length.

Back view, 100% better than first time!

 

My waistband is about 2" wide, which is perfect for me.  I did not have enough matching buttons for the waist, but NO ONE will know.  Besides you.  and Me.

I added back pocket flaps, I just like the look and I used two belt loops in the center back and crossed them.

I am very happy with how these turned out.  I am wearing them as I type this up.  They are comfortable too!! 

 

Keep Sewing

Stay Happy