KellysSewing.... when she is not running: Already out.....Woven jacket

Saturday, June 6, 2015

Already out.....Woven jacket

Since my TNT jacket pattern was already out on the cutting table, I thought I would give my 'Morris'd' version a try in a woven fabric. I had a beautiful piece of stretch denim, grey, white and black flowers. Only a small piece though, so once I determined I could at least cut the fronts and sleeves out of it, I rummaged my stash for something to use for the back and facings. I found a remnant of black stretch denim! Perfect. So here is my version of My Morris'd TNT in a stretch woven.

The fact that the flowers appear to match across the fronts is amazing, I could only fit them on the fabric in one way, each front edge was originally the selvage edge! I could not match the flower layout on the sleeves, but I like the randomness of it.

The back, cut on the fold, has 2 darts for shaping.

I did not have enough of the flower fabric to extend the lapels like on my first version. So these ones fold open much less. Which means I had to redraw the facings, which you can see below, I didn't quite make them deep enough! I remedied this by putting buttons on the flaps as they were folded out. This kind of holds everything together and keeps the minimal facings in place. Well that and I top stitched the facings down! I did no front closures, because I like the casualness of it just hanging open.

I lined just the back. I did this by just making 2 back pieces, one of outer fabric, one of the lining. Once the darts were sewn in both pieces, I serged them together, wrong sides facing, along all edges except the bottom 3" on each side and along the bottom. Then I just treated them as one piece. Leaving the bottom and bottom edges open, allowed me to hem the back and the lining separately. When I cut out the lining, I extended on the side that was cut on the fold by 1", which gave me 2" extra to form a pleat in center back for ease of movement.