Saturday, July 8, 2017

McCalls 9313, linen maxi dress

  I bought a beautiful striped linen at  I knew it was destined to become a summer dress. I had picked up this old Easy McCalls pattern at a thrift store for $1. I like the simplicity of it. But, I could tell the shoulders were too wide and the neckline to high, so i altered them closer to a TNT tank of mine  
McCalls 9313, altered shoulders and neckline
The pattern came with bias pattern pieces for finishing neck and arms.  I wanted a cleaner finish so drafted an all in one facing.  It is THE way to get a nice clean neckline.  If you google "all in one facing video" you can find all sorts of videos guiding you through the 'burrito' method of a clean finish.  
Self drafted all in one facing for clean neck and arm finish
The pics below, show how I match stripes.
Align fabric edges. Measure in depth of seam allowance
Hold fabric in place at seamline
Lift top fabric to see if stripes aligned, adjust if needed
Place pin on aligned stripe edge. I did this on both sides of all stripes.
Was a tedious task, but so worth it!
Help! The pattern had no pockets, but I always need pockets, but where to put them? Instagram to the rescue!
I went to Instragram for pocket placement advice! #3 won
You can hardly see the pockets at all! I made the pocket opening along the side vs the top. Had a more natural feel for use. 
I love the results!

Stay Happy

Keep Sewing

And if you cant sew

Kiss a cute boy!

Kiss a cute boy.

Sunday, May 28, 2017

What do you get when you cross an Ogden Cami and a woven T?

  Posting my culottes again because somehow the last post is only on BlogLovin.  I hate that I cant update my blog on my Ipad. I have to do it via Blogpro. I dont care for it. Very un-user friendly.   These are a cross between Vogue 9091 and B6327.  I removed the front pleat and the zip is now front with a cut on fly.  I love the 70's vibe.
Wrap around waistband and clasp closure
Inside front pockets
Love them!
I love the shape and neckline of the Ogden Cami, but it is not really appropriate for my office, unless i wear something to cover my shoulders......which then hides the features I like!  So I altered the front and back to have the armscyce of my TNT woven T, (B5948) and used that sleeve, but kept the Ogden neckline and body shape.   
Front view, also did FBA.   Not sure of the fabric, a challis or georgette? Frays like crazy, slightly grainy feeling and difficult to work with. 
To control the fabric, after cutting, I ensured all pieces were still the same shape as the pattern piece then I starched them all like crazy.  
Sleeve under pattern piece to ensure shape is correct before starching
I lay the facing atop the already starched front/back to ensure it was shaped correctly then starched.
With my terra-cotta culottes
Love the Ogden back neckline
Due to the fraying, i had to do all french seams  also a narrow hem as it was already short     This was my muslin, but was hoping for a wearable muslin. Now to make it in a nice black. Stay Happy Keep Sewing    

Sunday, February 19, 2017

I love Paprika! The Jasper variety....


I made the Jasper sweater 2 weeks ago and I loved it!  Now time for the dress!


Jasper Sweater

I wore it twice. Literally. By the end of the second wearing the fabric looked like a cat had used it as a scratching post on the side where my purse and arm had rubbed against the body. I was so bummed! Especially since it was over $10 a yard. (Joann's -- beware!) Now it will be my camping jasper. So what's a girl to do?  I made another of course. The Jasper dress this time. 



See my "design feature"?



I made the size 6 again.  I was afraid it might be too short  but I think it will be fine with tights and boots.



Beautiful welt, what is wrong?




I did a beautiful job on the welts. Only to discover I had attached them to the pocket lining instead of the dress front. Oh no! I had no more fabric to cut another. I decided to put the whole pocket OUTSIDE of the dress. My design feature! 



Hidden pocket now sort of a kangaroo pocket!




Not sure why the close ups appear black. Fabric is dark blue. I just realized I did not add the collar tab, I like it better without on this version. Just like with the sweater, I made the sleeves and cuffs slimmer by 5/8", I also sewed the back princess seams about 1/4" deeper from underarm to waist  




Pocket design feature put to use!




Princess seams make for a nice fit


Not sure if I made a cutting error or not, but the hem band was too short in the back. I tried pressing it to release the gathers, but it appeared to stretch out the band. It is in the washer now, hoping it springs back in shape!


Back, you can see the stretched hem band

I will be making at least one more, because I have to try out the hood version!

On another note, today is my middle daughter's

30th birthday. I made her a True Bias Ogden Cami.


True Bias Ogden Cami

I lengthened it by 6" and fully lined it. I also used sliding bra closures so that the straps would be adjustable



Full lining

Thank you for stopping by! Have a lovely week!  

Stay Happy

Keep Sewing

And if you can't sew

Count your blessings


What a difference a year can make!




Saturday, February 4, 2017

Paprika Jasper Sweater

I think I bought this pattern about 3-4 weeks ago. I printed and taped! Only to discover that I had no tracing paper!  I finally picked some up yesterday at Joanns.

Jasper by Paprika Patterns         While there, I bought 2 yards of this gorgeous sweater knit. Tossed it in the washer and dryer yesterday. Came out beautiful. This morning I traced off size 6. I debated 6 or 7, as 6 is based off B cup and 7 is based off C cup. The pattern said to go with your hip size, if your chest was a 6 or 7. It was right. The fit is great. I went with the hoodless version. 
Front view. I love it.
It did not dawn on me to center the horizontal pattern down the center front and back!  I am so happy with the fit and fabric, that I decided I just don't care!         
Side. Pattern matching perfect on this side!

I was very happy with the princess seams, they really make it  a nice fitting sweater, instead of being bulky.    

Back view    

Again you can see how I did not center the pattern on the fabric. lol  

Welt pocket    
Welt pocket
    I was a little nervous about the welt pockets in such a bulky fabric. I followed the tutorial on Paprika Patterns. Was a breeze.   
The collar is my favorite feature!         I really love this pattern. Very flattering, comfy and fun. I will definitely have to try one with the hood.  Stay happy Keep sewing And if you can't sew Go sledding with a cute boy. 
My boys.

Sunday, January 22, 2017

Back in the saddle again, McCalls 7127

I have procrastinated posting because I was not sure how to start. It had been so long.  So I am just going to dive in with what I have been sewing.   Today I worked on M7127. View B. I made so many sizing changes, that all I used from McCalls really was the design idea.  Where do they get their sizing? Following their sizing based on your measurements is guarantee of failure.  
Bases on my measurements of 40-33-41, I should have cut out size 18.  I compared it to my TNT for knits, and as you can see below, size 18 was crazy huge.  So I traced my TNT on the pattern and used my sizing,  and followed their style lines. I used my TNT knit sleeve pattern.
My TNT traced onto McCalls back
My TNT traced on McCalls front
 My fabric is from JoAnns. It has more stretch than recommended.  It worked out great. Funny thing is I ended up with a shirt I can wear frontwards or backwards!  I serged elastic to the neck and wrap edge, then folded it under and top stitched it in place. This helped to prevent it from stretching out of shape. I really like this top. 
Worn as illustrated on pattern
Worn as illustrated on pattern
Worn as illustrated on pattern
Worn backwards
Worn backwards
Worn backwards
 My hair has really grown back since I finished chemo. It has a mind of it's own though! Parts are curly and parts are straight! I am very thankful to have hair though. I am also very thankful to still be here!  (And to my plastic surgeon for making me boobies. I missed them.)  

Stay Happy

Keep Sewing

And if you can't sew

Be thankful for what you can do  

What a difference a year can make.