Hookie

I played hookie today. Spent the whole weekend working on the house, (we painted the outside, finished up trim this weekend) garden (final freeze is safely behind us, so I finally got to plant some pretties.)  So I needed a me day. That was today.

I worked on the grandbaby's quilt.....

I taped the back fabric to the kitchen floor using the tiles as a grid to made sure it was straight.  Then layed the batting over that and then the top.  Smoothed everything out and pinned, pinned, pinned.  After pinning, I cut the batting all the way around leaving about 1"  all the way around.

Here it is, all pinned and folded.  Waiting for me to decide how I am going to quilt it.  Around the windows?  only in the white between windows?  any suggestions?

So then I decided that the grandbaby needed a receiving blanket.  I fell in love with this fabric at JoAnns.  Litte critters all hiding in the jungle.  The back is a soft flannel.   No pattern, just a 36" square of the main fabric and the flannel backing.  After it was cut out, I used a dinner plate as a pattern and rounded the corners.   I then sewed all sides, leaving a 5" gap for turning right side out.  Turn right side out.  Hand sew the gap closed and a little embroidery stitch around the edges.  Too cute.   A little butterfly from the jungle appliqued on the flannel side.

My beautiful daughter and my grandson.  My child with her child. 

Then I made myself a hippy skirt.  (-:  So comfortable.  No pattern.  I just layed the folded fabric out and cut 10" layers.  Sewed them into rings and gathered and layered them together.  Each layer is 1.5 times bigger than the one above it.  There are no pockets, so I made a hidden hanging one, on the inside.  Perfect for my phone. 

I wish I could afford to play hookie everyday!

Stay Happy! Keep Sewing!!

Grandbaby quilt progress

Top, done.
Back, done.

Now just to assemble with the batting and then figure out how I want to quilt it......

Quilt top. I fussy cut each 'picture' and then appliqued my own layout. 

Borders, blue and brown.  I made bias tape out of the orange for the back of the quilt and inserted it between the two borders.

Adorable little lady bug

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Keep Sewing!

Gingham screams summer to me

I jumped on the gingham bandwagon with this wonderful cotton, lycra blend from Fabric.com.  I used my altered Jalie 3130 as the pattern. 

I love this pattern, everything is well drafted and fits together perfectly.  The yoke combined with no stand, make the inside as nice as the outside.  I have included pictures the pattern facing alteration and the yoke inside and out.

Here is an excerpt from my review at Pattern Review

Fabric Used: A stretch cotton gingham from Fabric.com  96%cotton, 4% lycra.  Washed up like a dream and a breeze to sew.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I have altered the original body of the pattern by taking a 1/2 tuck down the front of the pattern.  I also have done a forward shoulder alteration and a square shoulder alteration.  With those changes, it is my TNT button up shirt pattern.   I can then make the 3130 as designed.  Or I can continue with changes which is what I did with this shirt.  It is similar in design to the chambray Fossil I did a knock off of last time.  I changed the collar to a fold over collar by altering the collar piece and omitting the stand. I extended the center front and drafted it into a self facing.  I omitted the sleeve tabs and shortened the sleeves and inserted a 3" split at hem side seams.  I also omitted the pocket tabs. I cut the front pockets and the yokes on the bias for pattern contrast.
 



















Front Pattern with cut on facing                                 shortened sleeve











Altered Collar

Inside yoke with collar straight up, no unsightly seams!

Cut on facing from inside

3" Split at side hem

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I have sewn it many times now. I am sure come fall, I will be needing some more longer sleeved shirts, so this Jalie will be one of my go to's, no matter what the season.Conclusion: I love this gingham, it is light purple and white.  I made it especially to go with a a white denim pencil skirt I made last summer.   I Love it.

Fossil

I pinned this on Pinterest from Fossil.com a while back.

Then I used parts of Jalie 3130 for the main body and faced yoke.  I have altered the Jalie quite a bit, taking a full tuck down each side front in the pattern, lowered the dart, took most of the slope out of the shoulder seams and did a front should roll adjustment. I extended the front centers to have a cut on facing.  I sewed the sleeves in flat.  Wonderful.  You have got to try it.   I self drafted cuffed sleeves and a fold over collar (no stand) and enlarged the pocket pattern to have a center pleat and came up with this......

  

  I think I have pretty much perfected the fit to my odd wonderful body.  My first TNT button up shirt pattern. 

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Keep Sewing

Me Made May

I have been unofficially taking part in Me Made May.  I have worn at least 2 me made items everyday.  I have not taken pictures as I barely have time to blog... obviously.  What taking part in this challenge has brought to my attention.

1.  I spend too much time sewing clothes I will not wear.
2.  I don't like to wear dresses.
3.  I need to stop making dresses.
4.  I like wearing skirts. 
5.  I need more skirts that are easier to make an outfit out of.  Outlandish print skirts do not blend easily into ones wardrobe.
6.  I need to widen the variety of tops that I make.
7.  T shirts are not that flattering on me.
8.  A top that fits well is way more flattering than a baggy top that I think hides my bulges.
9.  I need to make more panties.
10.  I love home made panties.
11.  When I buy inappropriate material to make everyday clothes, I will not wear them.
12.  I have only made 1 pair of shorts.  1... really.  How did that happen?
13.  Stop buying fabric in colors that don't look good on me.
14.  My duct tape dummy really is my friend.
15.  If I make a pattern and it just does nothing for me, don't try it again for gosh sakes.
16.  Line the skirt! Beats the heck out of searching for a slip of appropriate length in the dark while trying not to wake my husband.
17.  Stop repeating a pattern just because it is quick and easy.  ie, too many Sorbettos
18.  Stop making sleeveless if I am not going to work out my upper arms.
19.  Sleeves are my friend.
20.  Instant tan makes any skirt look better.
21.  I love to sew.  I love to think about it, to read about it, to do it.  Now I need to improve on the wearing more of what I sew.  
22.  I need more time to sew.

There, one for everyday so far.

Now, what in the world am I going to wear tomorrow?  Going to try to force myself to wear the yellow and grey shirtdress I made so long ago.  Try.  Force. 

Stay Happy

Keep Sewing

 

Critter Community

I have the main top done.  I used Robert Kaufman's Critter Community in retro.  I could not go with the layout the material as it was, I fussy cut each animal and then appliqued to a top.   Not sure what kind of borders I am going to use......  I had a lot of fun making this, kept picturing a new little baby snuggled up in it. 

Stay Happy, Keep Sewing!!

Sunday Morning's are always full of promise

The day lay   ahead and all that is dreamed of being accomplished is still possible.  The first up, is a baby quilt.  New direction for my sewing.  I have made a few quilts before, the last being for my daughter's college graduation a few years ago.  Now one for her new baby.  That is right, I am going to be a grandma.  In October.  I have already tried knitting booties, my first attempt would fit a 6 year old.  Sewing booties, not sure an actual foot could ever be coaxed into them.  So now,  a quilt.  Going to be fun.  I am really looking forward to being a grandma. 

Stay Happy, Keep Sewing!

New Look 6082, slim ankle length pants muslin

Ok, so here is my muslin of slim fit, ankle length pants.  Not sure if they qualify as cigarette pants, as I am not totally sure how cigarrette pants are defined.

I traced out New Look 6082 on to tracing paper.  I then pin fitted the pieces together and tried one leg on.  I could tell right away that there was going to be a crotch issue.  Namely, a camel toe and butt wedgie.  After some research, I went with a fix I read about on Fashion Incubator.  http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?s=camel+toe.   She has some very useful information and also a very entertaining read.    I started out with her idea that a camel toe in front is caused by too straight of a front crotch curve, which results in too short of curve.  I removed 1/2" on the vertical portion to nothing at the inner leg.  I did the same for the back, as a butt wedgie is caused by same issue.  I added the 1/2" that I removed front and back, to both front and back sides.   I cut out my muslin with my newly altered pattern pieces and I basted them together and the camel toe, butt wedgie were gone, but oh my, there was quite an excess of fabric on either side my front crotch and between my legs.  I took them off and stared at them for awhile..... then I thought perhaps that if I removed some of the inner leg from front and back that it might help.  So I basted out another 3/8" off of the inner thighs, front and back, tapering to nothing after about 6".  This cured it!!   So all in all, I ended up taking out 1/2" along the vertical crotch front and back and up to 7/8" toward the bottom of the curves.  I also lowered the center front waist by 1/2".  Below is what my size 16 tracing with my alterations looks like compared to the orignal pattern underneath.

front

 

back

Front, not wrinkle free, but then, what pants are?  I was not going for painted on look. 

 Side view, you can see lapped zipper....and also that I put the hem slits on the inner leg instead of outer.... oops.  I  mean, design feature.

 Back view, not too tight and no butt wedgie.  I am quite happy with them.  And they are comfortable sitting as well, very important, as I sit all day at work.     So now....... the grey denim.....

Stay Happy, Keep Sewing!!

Best Laid Plans

I traced out and cut out my muslin for B5712.  Then came work, school, a funeral, more school, laundry and somehow, I lost interest in that cute little jacket.

Might have been the vintage A-line wool skirt I bought at a second hand store while out of town for the funeral.  I just thought it was adorable, I envisioned it as a pencil skirt with my brown boots.... and it was only $6!

 The old zipper and vintage button were still in fine working condition.

 It was fully block fused with a wonderful knit interfacing

 I picked apart the side seams and zipper and just cut off waistband,  there would be no re-using that!  My waste is not vinage sized.    I used my Mcall's 5590 pattern to lay over the pieces to confirm that they were still big enough to contain me and for marking how much of the sides to remove for a nice pencil shape.  Cut off about 4"-5" of the top, that means my waist size must be about the hip size of the original owner! 

I then pinned it on me.....

 and DH took pictures ...... and yes, those are Christmas ornaments on the floor.  We JUST took down the tree.  DON'T JUDGE ME.  This was the first Christmas that all of my kids could not come home, somehow, I just needed to leave the tree up.  Hubby gently suggested on FEBRUARY 5th, that maybe we could take it down together.....I love that man.

 Back to the skirt, looking good, reserved the original hem.

Had a side lapped zip, so I left the back in one piece.  The orginal sewer did a fine job matching up the patterns on the back. 

And here it is!  I love my new old skirt!  Not sure why my green top looks black in this picture.......  and yes, that is soot all around the wood stove.  AGAIN, DON'T JUDGE ME.  It is cold where we live and my DH keeps that baby burning non stop.  Dangerous vacuuming up hot soot and ashes.  ((-:

Now...... I bought some nice ash grey denim..... think I want to make some cigarette pants...... only mine will be ankle or longer length.... does that disqualify them from being cigarette pants? 

The Butterick 5712 is sitting on the sidelines, patiently waiting.... I think it is curious about these cigarette pants too..

Stay Happy , Keep Sewing!

Butterick 5712

Something about this little jacket pattern intrigues me.

It is not be the awful photos, so it must be the line drawings. View B.

The sleeves are cut on the jacket front and back.  The sides begin at lower hem and continues up to underarm and then down the arm to sleeve hem.  And there are cute little hidden inseam pockets on the front. I searched and no luck, no one has reviewed it, so I must be the guinnea pig, pioneer.  Last night I traced it with pattern tracing paper and then pin fit it together and tried it on.  I was just sure that there was no way it would work, but it seems that it might.  So the intrigue deepens.....  I have cut out a muslin..... so we shall see if my curiosity got the best of me or led me to something orniginal! 

Stay Happy!  Keep Sewing!

Round 2 and it's a knockout!

 I finished my second Jalie 3130.  I am very happy with this pattern.  I usually only buy patterns when they are on sale, so I had high hopes for this pattern, as it is a bit more $ than normal sale pattern!  This time around, instead of retracing for a smaller size up front, I tried removing a 1/4" on each front side, I think it now fits me a bit better in the upper chest.  I still ended up using 5/8" side seams.  The shirt fits KG2 a bit tighter in the bust than I, as she is over 10 years old and her breasts have not .....migrated south at all, whereas mine.... a bit.
          

My fabric is a cotton poly blend from JoAnns.  Feels really nice against the skin, sews up very well, but snags somewhat easily, unfortunately.   I, again, used the tutorial on collars with stands from GigiSews found on this tutorial website, http://sewingtutorials.blogspot.com/2008/05/topstees.html, This site has some awesome tutorials.  First you attach the inner stand to the shirt, then attach finished collar to the inner stand.  Then the outer stand to the inner stand, just sewing around the ends and collar edge.  Then you turn the whole thing right side out and finish the outer stand lower edge.  You end up with such a nice finish, both inside and outside.

Check out the site, she explains it so much better and her pictures help where words can not.
Now, on to the sleeves, which are inserted flat.  These sleeves go in without a pucker in site.  Perfect.  I added a 1 1/2" to the depth of the cuff, to allow a bit deeper of a roll up.

 

I highly recommend this pattern for anyone who loves a nice button up shirt.

Stay Happy, Keep Sewing! 

Round 2

My second Jalie 3130 is on the cutting board this morning.  Made a few slight tweaks to the pattern......more later!

Jalie 3130

I finished the Jalie 3130.  I must say, this is a very nice shirt pattern.  I think the pocket sizing and collar sizing are perfect, just like RTW.  Sometimes the Big 4 have collars and pockets that are out of scale to the shirt front and they can scream home made.  

 This pic is a bit blury, but I was trying to show the pockets, hard to see on this busy print. The fabric is a cotton blend from the Lisette collection at JoAnns.  It is beautiful.  No wrinkles, right out of the dryer and presses very well.  I cut the size Y as it most closely matched  my measurements, but I ended up taking it in 5/8" more from the elbow seam to the waist.    The sleeves are same front to back and are inserted flat.  Was a dream to ease in.  No puckers. 

 I tried a new tutorial on the collar, it was from GigiSews, http://behindtheseams.wordpress.com/2006/05/24/collar-on-stand-part-1/.  It was a little hard to comprehend what I was doing at first, but if you also follow the pictures, it works out just like she says it will!  Beautiful collar! 

 The sleeves have a cuff on the bottom, which is folded while attaching so that the right side of the fabric is also on the inside of the sleeve, so when you roll them up, you don't see the wrong side of the fabric.  Brilliant!

While there are no princess seams, the front and back darts do pretty well.  There is also a yoke on the back which is just slightly curved as attached which also helps with the back shaping. 

If you like button up shirts, I highly recommend this pattern. 

Stay Happy, Keep Sewing!

A weekend to sew.....

What to do, What to do....  I know, my newest shipment from PR.

Jalie 3130 has arrived..... Fabric is in the dryer........Think I will start tracing while waiting for my fabric to dry. 

I love weekends!

Survived

First week of school down!  and all homework done.  Yay.  That means sewing all weekend!!!!!  Thanks for the well wishes!!! 

School starts today.....

For ME!   I actually have butterflies.  Only been 32 years since I sat in a class room.   Wish me luck!

McCall's The Perfect Shirtdress 5847

To cleanse my sewing pallette of the unsuccessful Colette attempt ( I think it was fabric choice and may try again), I decided to try the Perfect Shirt Dress by Palmer & Pletcsch.  McCalls 5847, I love a good fitting shirtdress.

Here is my review.



Pattern Sizing: 14-16, I cut a 16 even though for my measurements 41-34-42, it said to cut a 20.  I think they plan on way more ease than I wanted.



Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?   Yes, with exception of the sleeve roll up that I talk about later, and the first button placement is WAY lower that what appears in the photos.  I placed my first, right between my girls and it was perfect.

Were the instructions easy to follow?     They were. Although, I don't care for the way the collar was attached, very hard to get the fold under of the shoulder seam seam allowances just right they way they have you do it.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?    I love a shirt dress. I think with the princess seam shaping, it is flattering on any figures.



Fabric Used: A cotton / poly blend from JoAnns



Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:   I added a couple inches in length for view C and it still hits above my knee, for reference I am 5'9". 
I did not have enough fabric to cut the front section 4 times ( 2 times for facings) so the facings I cut and pieced fabric together. Since the seam is on the inside and falls at the waist, it is not noticeable. I also used cotton batiste for the interfacing of the entire center front sections and the collar, instead of any fusibles. One oddity on view C, they just have you do a narrow hem at the bottom of the sleeve and then roll it up. So the wrong side of your material would be visible for the sleeve roll. This is not apparent from the photo on the pattern envelope. I did not roll mine at all and just shortened the sleeve tab and used it anyway, as I liked the look.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?    I will, I think a few sleeveless ones for summer......



Conclusion:    I love this pattern.  It is well drafted and went together very nicely.   I traced and fit the pattern to my KG2 (body double) to see where it might need altering. I also compared it to the Butterick 5678 for the princess seam shaping. I had to remove a little of the curve above the bust area, just like with the butterick, my upper bust is just not very busty. (-: That was about all of the altering I had to do. I love all of the topstitching on the princess seams, gives the dress added structure and makes eveything hang very well.

Stay Happy and Keep Sewing!

Decisions

Do you ever get a fabric or pattern home, that you were once excited enough about - to happily pick all the necessary notions, then once you have it home, you wonder why?  Why did I chose this fabric?  Or Why did I chose this pattern?    I must have some sort of blinders on when I am fabric shopping or forget completely what types of clothing look best on me once the pages of the pattern catalogs begin to fly.  I am suffering from that today.  Not the fabric part, but more the pattern question.  I am making Colette 1018, the Jasmine.  I did not buy fabric for it, so I am using some stash fabric that is at least 20 years old to make a muslin.   Working on the bias is just not one of my favorite things, and usually results in clinging to body parts I prefer to not emphasize.   I am making the sleeves right now, but everytime I try it on, it just seems.......not me.  I don't know.  I am going to trudge on and hope for the best.  Maybe once it is all together, I will change my mind and love it.  One can hope, right?

Butterick 5678, my way

I finished the semi fitted, shirt which I wanted to use as a light jacket. I think it came out very nice. 

 Here is my review. 

Pattern Description: .....Semi fitted shirt with shoulder princess seams. various sleeve, cuff, collar options. I made view B with the pockets / tabs and sleeve / cuffs from view D.

Pattern sizing:  EE 14-20, I cut a 14/16

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?...................I was going for a light jacket vs a shirt, so mine looks a little heavier

Were the instructions easy to follow?.......... those that I looked at.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?............ I like the long look and slim effect. I prefer shirts / jackets with princess seams, I feel they are easier to fit than darts and give a more flattering silhouette.

Fabric Used:......... a light weight stretch cordoroy from Fabric.com, in raspberry that has been aging in my stash a few years. I can't remember where I read that you need to either not iron cordoroy or have a special cover to use. I used a big fluffy double folded, non linty towel to cover my ironing board and then used a light touch when steaming my seams. I found this preserved the nap very well.



Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:........ I like that this pattern has separate front pieces based on cup size. I always trace out my patterns on to tracing paper and then pin them together and fit them on KG2, my duct tape dummy, that way I can get a better idea of how the pattern will fit and can make adjustments to the tissue. I went with my cup size, but ended up having to adjust the above bust area in the princess seam.



I cut a 16 to start but sized down to a 14 beginning at the armscyce and above.



I contemplated putting on eppaluates, but when pinned on, my DH commented that I looked like I belonged in Sargeant Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band.



I used Beth from Rusty Bobbin tutorial on a one strip sleeve placket. Was a little challenging with cordoroy, but I did manage and I think they look pretty good. http://rustybobbin.com/blog/?p=342



I used a contrasting fabric for the under collar, inner stand, inner cuffs and under pocket tabs. I really like the look it give the jacket.



I have also found that on collars and cuffs and button plackets, I prefer to use sew in interfacing. I actually use prewashed fabric as the interfacing, either my fashion fabric or a piece of something similar weight. I have had fusible interfacings fail on me too many times after a couple washes. The fabric interfacing never shrinks or bubbles.



The hem is very curved, so to get a flatter hem, I stitched a gathering stitch about 1/4" from lower edge and then pulled the thread to ease in the curves and I folded under the remaining 3/8" for my hem.



Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes and Yes.  I have sewn it twice, once in view B with C sleeves and two pockets. I am contemplating the longer version D, we will see.





Conclusion:.... I really like the ease of fitting this shirt to your curves or lack thereof.

Stay Happy, Keep Sewing!