Saturday, January 7, 2012

Butterick 5678, my way

I finished the semi fitted, shirt which I wanted to use as a light jacket. I think it came out very nice. 

 Here is my review. 

Pattern Description: .....Semi fitted shirt with shoulder princess seams. various sleeve, cuff, collar options. I made view B with the pockets / tabs and sleeve / cuffs from view D.

Pattern sizing:  EE 14-20, I cut a 14/16

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?...................I was going for a light jacket vs a shirt, so mine looks a little heavier

Were the instructions easy to follow?.......... those that I looked at.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?............ I like the long look and slim effect. I prefer shirts / jackets with princess seams, I feel they are easier to fit than darts and give a more flattering silhouette.

Fabric Used:......... a light weight stretch cordoroy from, in raspberry that has been aging in my stash a few years. I can't remember where I read that you need to either not iron cordoroy or have a special cover to use. I used a big fluffy double folded, non linty towel to cover my ironing board and then used a light touch when steaming my seams. I found this preserved the nap very well.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:........ I like that this pattern has separate front pieces based on cup size. I always trace out my patterns on to tracing paper and then pin them together and fit them on KG2, my duct tape dummy, that way I can get a better idea of how the pattern will fit and can make adjustments to the tissue. I went with my cup size, but ended up having to adjust the above bust area in the princess seam.

I cut a 16 to start but sized down to a 14 beginning at the armscyce and above.

I contemplated putting on eppaluates, but when pinned on, my DH commented that I looked like I belonged in Sargeant Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band.

I used Beth from Rusty Bobbin tutorial on a one strip sleeve placket. Was a little challenging with cordoroy, but I did manage and I think they look pretty good.

I used a contrasting fabric for the under collar, inner stand, inner cuffs and under pocket tabs. I really like the look it give the jacket.

I have also found that on collars and cuffs and button plackets, I prefer to use sew in interfacing. I actually use prewashed fabric as the interfacing, either my fashion fabric or a piece of something similar weight. I have had fusible interfacings fail on me too many times after a couple washes. The fabric interfacing never shrinks or bubbles.

The hem is very curved, so to get a flatter hem, I stitched a gathering stitch about 1/4" from lower edge and then pulled the thread to ease in the curves and I folded under the remaining 3/8" for my hem.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes and Yes.  I have sewn it twice, once in view B with C sleeves and two pockets. I am contemplating the longer version D, we will see.

Conclusion:.... I really like the ease of fitting this shirt to your curves or lack thereof.

Stay Happy, Keep Sewing!


  1. Great jacket - I love the lining. I like to see an unusual lining - adds pizzazz

  2. Love it too! Great idea for a light jacket, the cord, and I love your contrast fabric.

  3. Just discovered your blog via this Butterick pattern. I am about to cut it out - fingers crossed it turns out as well as to have a peek around your blog first...

  4. you have inspired me. It's been a few years since I've made anything.
    I really love your ideas!! It looks fabulous!