Saturday, May 17, 2014

Hey June, don't make it big, take a tuck here and make it better..

So let it out and let it in, hey June, begin
Don't wait for someone else to fix it
And don't you know that it's just you, hey June, you'll do
The movement you need is on your front shoulder
Nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah yeah
I bought the Hey June, Lane Raglan T from
I saw the one Lisa made on Notes from a mad housewife.  I was inspired.

Join me on my muslin'ing journey.  It has a happy ending.  :-)
 The pattern suggests selecting your size based on your waist measurement.  I was doubtful, as my waist measurement put me at a medium in this pattern and I just don't think of myself as medium. So I compared the body to my fave Renfrew pattern, and saw that waist wise, I was closer to a XL. 
Muslin # 1 
I cut an XL.  and it WAS.  In the shoulders / front chest / upper back.  Way too much excess fabric in the front raglan part.  And the neckline to big.  But the WAIST fit.  So, seems I am a medium and a XL.    On this first muslin, I did not add the hem bands to sleeves and body.
That excess fold of fabric in front arm area has got to go.
But I could see the possibilities, This could be a cute top on me.  Hubby says I just need some green pointy shoes and hat.  Men!
So back to my pattern.   I recut the necklines and sleeve/shoulder seams down to about a medium on the front, sleeve and back pieces, leaving the body width at L, XL.  I pinched out an inch on the front of the raglan/shoulder seam, both on shirt front and sleeve. I also pinched out a small bit in the neckline on front and back pieces.  On the front, I rotated the fullness taken out the raglan / shoulder down to the side and inserted a dart on the front side.  I shaved quite a bit off of the upper raglan shoulder area on the back side. 
In the photos below, I had originally cut the largest size on the paper pattern laying under my traced pattern pieces.  You can see my alterations by comparing the original pattern underneath, to the traced altered pattern on top.
Front, pinched out 1" in shoulder/ sleeve, added a dart on side.
 cut neckline, sleeve/shoulder area down to medium
Sleeve, pinched out same 1" in shoulder/sleeve, cut neckline, sleeve/shoulder edges down to medium 

Cut neckline and shoulder/sleeve edge down to size
medium and took small tuck in neckline.


Muslin #2
It worked!!!  My dart is a bit low, but I can live with it.  I will raise it about 1/2" on my pattern for next time.  I am so happy!  I think it is a great pattern.  Such an easy and casual style.  Literally less than 2 hours to make.  So, if you decide to give it a try, I would recommend comparing the flat pattern to one that you know fits you, to get the appropriate size in the shoulder AND waist area.  Because if you are XL in the waist like me, but medium in the shoulder area, comparing both areas to an existing fitted pattern is the way to go.  In looking at these photos, I think I need to go back and topstitch my neckline. 



Stay Happy
Keep Sewing
and if you can't sew
bake some cookies.
Preferably, chocolate chip.


  1. Love it!! Seems so tough to get a great fitting raglan.

    1. Great job Kelly. All you modifications have worked well, and you new raglan tee looks great.