Saturday, February 11, 2012

New Look 6082, slim ankle length pants muslin

Ok, so here is my muslin of slim fit, ankle length pants.  Not sure if they qualify as cigarette pants, as I am not totally sure how cigarrette pants are defined.

I traced out New Look 6082 on to tracing paper.  I then pin fitted the pieces together and tried one leg on.  I could tell right away that there was going to be a crotch issue.  Namely, a camel toe and butt wedgie.  After some research, I went with a fix I read about on Fashion Incubator.   She has some very useful information and also a very entertaining read.    I started out with her idea that a camel toe in front is caused by too straight of a front crotch curve, which results in too short of curve.  I removed 1/2" on the vertical portion to nothing at the inner leg.  I did the same for the back, as a butt wedgie is caused by same issue.  I added the 1/2" that I removed front and back, to both front and back sides.   I cut out my muslin with my newly altered pattern pieces and I basted them together and the camel toe, butt wedgie were gone, but oh my, there was quite an excess of fabric on either side my front crotch and between my legs.  I took them off and stared at them for awhile..... then I thought perhaps that if I removed some of the inner leg from front and back that it might help.  So I basted out another 3/8" off of the inner thighs, front and back, tapering to nothing after about 6".  This cured it!!   So all in all, I ended up taking out 1/2" along the vertical crotch front and back and up to 7/8" toward the bottom of the curves.  I also lowered the center front waist by 1/2".  Below is what my size 16 tracing with my alterations looks like compared to the orignal pattern underneath.

Front, not wrinkle free, but then, what pants are?  I was not going for painted on look. 

 Side view, you can see lapped zipper....and also that I put the hem slits on the inner leg instead of outer.... oops.  I  mean, design feature.
 Back view, not too tight and no butt wedgie.  I am quite happy with them.  And they are comfortable sitting as well, very important, as I sit all day at work.     So now....... the grey denim.....

Stay Happy, Keep Sewing!!


  1. Great pants (love the shoes too!). It really is an engineering job to get a pattern to fit isn't it? Excellent job. I haven't tackled pants yet and not looking forward to dealing with camel toe and butt wedgie!

  2. Wow, very impressive fit on your pants. I too am considering pants this year so your results are inspirng.