The Christmas gifts are all done, 8 pairs of pj's, christmas stockings for new family members, and a Monkey for Ronan. Now is time for me, me, me. I am doing a remake of McCalls 5815 but with long sleeves from Butterick 4610. (McCall's long sleeves were wide, with a slit at the wrist, not a look I wanted) I am going to use the McCalls non bow collar and the pockets from the Butterick pattern.
I am using a 100% wool tweed from Fabric.com purchased a few years back.
Using 3 reference books, as I have not worked with wool before. Not many had that great of tips for working with 100% wool, other than steaming tips. The JFRP is quite practical for construction and the one I am following most closely, the Couture Sewing ( came with a Christmas gift of the Threads DVD) tells of the purely couture methods and their reasoning. The Basic Tailoring is from Time Life books in 1974. It is for the home sewer with tailoring techniques explained and illustrated, this and the JFRP are the most practical for my use.
I chose the McCall's 5815 because I have used it previously, and already traced and modified the pattern to fit me. I have steamed the wool, allowed it to cool, laid out and cut out all fabric and linings. I applied interfacing to fronts, front sides, back and back sides, upper and under collars and a bias strip at the sleeve botttoms for a crisp hem and to strengthen an area that gets a lot of wear. I used a knit 100% polyester interfacing. It does not shrink at all with steaming. I hope time shows that this was a good choice. The pieces that I chose to interface, were from suggestions in Jackets for Real People.
I even taped the roll line! I measured the roll line and eased a piece of solid tape that was 1/4" shorter, to the roll line. This is suppose to help snug the lapel line against the chest and not gape away from the body during wear.
So far, I have about 8 hours of work into it. I have assembled the fronts and the facing and front linings.
I am excited to try all of these new techniques. I hope they result in a beautiful tweed blazer that I will be able to enjoy for years.